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Black Body Politic Pt. 1

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The word model derives from the Latin root modellus, which describes a human’s typical approach at coping with reality. A model has the propensity to illustrate and define the segment of reality that they are representing. In the case of fashion models the same rules apply.

Fashion designers are folks who attempt to create their niche, values and perceptions in the world as they see it, through their work. That said, they aren’t much different from the starving artists that seemingly populate every square inch of downtown Manhattan, NYC. Except of course Marc Jacobs, Alber Elbaz (Lanvin) and Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel) aint starving at all. Well, maybe the models in their runway shows are. Which brings me to my point.

Models. In the art of fashion, they are the canvas and at their best are muses that ignite the flame of inspiration. They represent the body politic of the world that inhabits the mind of these designers. Since high fashion is an international gazillion dollar industry, it is a very influential source that shapes worldviews, such as beauty and body image.

For example, if American fashion house Ralph Lauren or Marc Jacobs employs a disproportionate amount of Black models in comparison to white models, that lack of diversity sends a message to the global community. Ultimately, through this lens, America’s ideal woman does not include realistic representations of the Black body politic.

Fortunately, due to the contributions of iconoclasts Bethann Hardison and the late Naomi Sims, the face of high fashion is not a static stream of beige.

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Naomi Sims broke racial barriers in November 1968 when she became the first Black model on the cover of a mainstream American magazine, Ladies Home Journal. This later led to her historical cover of the October 1969 issue of Life magazine. As a result of this editorial success, Sims began modeling for fashion powerhouses Halston, Teal Traina, Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and Fernando Sanchez. Sims is commonly referred to as the first Black super model for good reason.

When model agencies turned her down, telling her that her skin was too dark, she began marketing herself directly to photographers. Along with her elegance, beauty and poise, Sims was a bonafide businesswoman with an enterprising mind that turned her celebrity into a multimillion-dollar cosmetic line, the Naomi Sims Collection.

The world lost a legend Saturday, August 1, 2009 when Sims lost to a battle with Cancer. Model matriarchs such as Bethann Hardison continue her legacy, the promotion of the health and beauty of Black women through fashion. Hardison has been known to make noise in the industry since 1988, when alongside fashion icon Iman, she formed the Black Girl Coalition, a forum with a mission to provide support for Models of African descent.

Today, Hardison is still very much active for the cause. Hardison owns her own modeling agency, Bethann Mangement. The company is responsible for such mega star models Tyson Beckford and Tahnee Welch. Also, she began town hall discussions, comprised of fashion insiders and outsiders, where the participants discuss the issues of diversity in high fashion, making it a conversation that seeps into the consciousness of the industry.

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As a result of these discussions, Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani was prompted to launch the historical, highly successful all Black issue of Italian Vogue last July 2008. The issue featured pioneers such as Hardison, Iman, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks. It also included the new movers and shakers Chanel Iman, Jourdan Dunn, and Arlenis Sosa to name a few.

Fashion is an art. Modeling is an art. Art is a microcosm of the world around us. In order to have a clear, broader understanding of ourselves, it is important to understand the plethora of cultures, which make up the globe in which we live.

March 30 1948-August 1 2009
In Memory Of Naomi Sims

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One Comment

  1. Lady Bee wrote:

    you rock! J-nine.

    Thursday, October 1, 2009 at 2:33 pm | Permalink

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